There
is, believe it or not, a tour company in Lisbon (Lisboa in Portuguese) called
the We Hate Tourism Tours http://www.wehatetourismtours.com/
(we learned about them from www.TripAdvisor.com).
They came very highly recommended so our expectations were equally high!
Rodrigo, our guide, met those expectations and went well above and beyond.
He
told us that he normally did the food-oriented tours so that our tour would
combine the Lisbon that the locals see with the food that the locals eat. And
wow! Did we eat well (at no extra charge, I must add). He drove us about Lisbon
first to see the views—it was yet again a spectacular day with visibility
measured in the dozens of miles—and then to Sintra, the bedroom community for
Lisbon. Lisbon’s population has shrunk by about 20-25% in the past 10 years
while Sintra’s has grown to double what it was 10 years ago. Sintra has the
colorful alleyways and shops that perhaps Lisbon had a hundred years ago. It
also has the Quinta da Regaleira, a place that has to be experienced, not just
described. As one site attempts to describe it: “This is a
fabulous assemblage of styles and constructions (gardens, wells, towers,
statues, mysterious grottoes, etc.), which Manini [a Portuguese architect] succeeded
in imbuing with exceptional characteristics. Albeit having a semblance of a
scene from opera, the Quinta da Regaleira has alchemical and sacred
connotations.” We had too little time here, but Rodrigo had some gastronomic
wonders for us to experience.
Upon arrival in Sintra he took us to
a little wine shop that specializes in Port. There we got to taste ginjinha (Lisbon cherry liqueur) in a chocolate cup. Mmm, mmm,
GOOD! And Randy and I bought a sampler of Ports (not including the Port that
cost 7000€ nor the several that cost 3000€) to bring home.
To fortify us even more for the
Quinta da Regaleira, he introduced us to the queijada (a
fabulous little delicacy about the size and shape of a hockey puck but bearing
much more resemblance to a little piece of almond flavored heaven) and
travesseiro (a sugar coated pastry that is a flakey, tender, sweet, delicious ‘pillow’).
Rodrigo was a tiny bit hung over from the previous days wedding he attended
(not his wedding!) so all he had was a tiny cup of green tea.
Thus suitably sustained, we tried valiantly
to see at least some of the Quinta and he arranged to pick us up armed with a
Portuguese ‘picnic lunch.’ The picnic, consumed in the car because of time
constraints, was pão com chouriço (bread with chorizo). Rodrigo demonstrated
how the tourists eat this French-style roll stuffed with chorizo and how we
were to eat it: The roll was hot from the oven, sort of torn open, and goat and
sheep mixture cheese from Alentejo was placed inside with some small tomatoes
and allowed to sit for a few moments while the cheese melted. Then, and only
then, were we allowed to chow down on the “gastronomic piece of heaven” (his
words).
By now we were back in Lisbon but
Rodrigo had more sights to show us even though we were all starting to get
nervous because we had to be back on board no later than 5:30 and it was rapidly
approaching 5:00. Nonetheless, he had one more piece of gastronomic heaven, a pastel
de nata (Lisbon custard tart) for us to sample. He proceeded to park illegally,
sprint across four lanes of traffic, and use his “connections” to go to the
front of the long line waiting to buy the tarts. Bringing them back he also
fished out some plastic cups for us to have a taste of some unnamed liquor that
we HAD to have with the luscious tarts.
With all of us biting our
fingernails and Rodrigo saying again and again, “Don’t worry! Don’t worry!” he
worked his way back to the ship, depositing our little band in front of the
ship with about 10 minutes to spare.
One of the most interesting,
different, and wonderful tours Randy and I have had. Ever! The company has
about five or six different tours in Lisbon and a few in other Portuguese
cities as well. They may not have the newest vehicles and truly, the Portuguese
drivers are unbelievable, but we laughed all day, had the best food and the
most interesting time, and Rodrigo kept us entertained from 11:00 (we were on
the dock 30 minutes early but he was there to greet us!) to 5:20. Quite an
accomplishment!
I am SO ready for a day at sea!
Rodrigo |
Cable car route 28, "like a roller coaster" says Rodrigo |
Last time we were in Lisbon we drove around in these. Never again! |
The police are trying to project a friendlier image! |
Sintra's old alleyways |
Can't resist a flower picture! |
Quinta da Regaleira |