We’ve been busy for the past few days traveling from
Chipping Campden to Gatwick via Stratford-upon-Avon, Avebury, and Bath to Thornbury
and the Thornbury Castle. And all on the “other” side of the road. But only
Randy drove, I was the designated talk-to-Penelope
(GPS)-and-translate-what-she-just-said person.
Along the way we went to Stratford-upon-Avon to see Anne
Hathaway’s (Shakespeare’s wife) cottage and Mary Arden’s (his mother, whom I
had never heard of) farm. Both were quite interesting but mostly I enjoyed Anne
Hathaway’s (but most of my photos are of the farm!). There are still Hathaways living in Stratford and they have given a
lot of family furniture to the cottage so it really has the feel of being in
Tudor times.
The guides at the cottage are very good, if a bit long
winded: we stood for about 25 minutes listening to the guide tell us all about
Anne and Will’s life together (and often apart). Gave me new appreciation for
my training as a docent at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum (among other
things: no more than three to five minutes at one spot)! Perhaps the most
interesting tidbit (to me) was her explanation of why in Anne’s family so many
survived: They lived out of town on their own farm and only had their own
sewage to deal with, compared to living in town, with no sewage disposal, and
having to deal with many people’s (disease-ridden) sewage. Anne was the oldest
of seven and all survived to adulthood, almost unheard of in that time.
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Randy in the art at Anne Hathaway's cottage |
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An early crow scarer-away thingy |
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Dinner, every day, cooked here! |
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These beds slept TWO! |
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Can't resist my flower photo! |
The farm was interesting in that it depicted life on a farm
in Tudor times, but it wasn’t as interesting nor as informative as the cottage.
But we got to see a turkey strutting his stuff—it IS spring, after all. But to
a duck? He must truly be desperate!
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A falconer from Tudor times |
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Even M'Lady couldn't explain what a man was doing pretending to be a bush. |
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A dance of the times |
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Randy talking to M'Lady |
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I am SO handsome! |
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She explained that if the wife died, the man would remarry within six to eight weeks because: a farm can be run without a man, but it CANNOT be run without a woman, He farms, She cooks, cleans, bakes, sews the clothing, weaves, plants vegetables, repairs what needs repairing in the house, gets rid of the sewage, carries water, EVERYTHING to do with running a household. |
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Wish I had a video of this, because the man does all the fancy footwork! |
Thornbury Castle is definitely a CASTLE! It has turrets and
circular stone staircases and all those castle-y things. I half expected to see
a knight pop out from one of the archways (For those who don’t know me well, I
spent a great deal of my childhood living in a castle [yes, with turrets and
crenelated towers and circular stone staircases] in Greenwich CT). Our room is
a suite of rooms with silken bell pulls (actually only control the lights but
they look really neat!) and fireplaces and thick stone walls and is accessed by
a circular staircase—really romantic but not fun to carry four suitcases up!
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The castle entrance |
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The local church |
The castle was splendid, but drinks and dinner, however,
were a disappointment. Drinks are a VERY small pour and the Brits don’t seem to
like ice. But they were served in The Drawing Room amongst lots of candles and
old portraits and liveried waiters so that was very nice. Dinner was quite
formal, not much choice of Mains (what we call Entrées) but we did have a
wonderful Spanish waiter who seemed very happy to hear that we had just come
from his home of A Coruña. Tomorrow will definitely be drinks in our room and a
pub dinner!
Breakfast was another matter. We met a delightful, very,
very English lady who was there researching her ancestors, who, she said, had
the dreadful manners to be born after 1815 when the Church stopped keeping
meticulous records. We only saw her at breakfast but she was quite friendly and
very frank (reminded me a lot of my Grandmother DeDe) and talked a lot about
how “dreadful” this or that was (DeDe also thought that most things were
dreadful, unless she thought of them first). She was quite possibly the
highlight of our visit to the castle.
We long ago decided to not go to Stonehenge but to see the Avebury
stones instead. I don’t have anything to compare it to (other than the
previously mentioned Rollright Stones), but Avebury was definitely worthwhile.
The stone circle(s) at Avebury are the largest in diameter in Britain and the
largest single stone is here. The town is actually built inside the circle and
is a lovely little town with a beautiful church that we wandered about for a
while.
On to Bath after we had seen all the stones and sheep we
could handle. One thing I will say about the sheep is that they don’t care
about hygiene! And I didn’t look where I was stepping and thus have some
lack-of-hygiene on my shoes!
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The local pub |
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Beautiful church in Avebury |
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These stones are BIG! |
Ah, Bath. What can I say. First, remember the song, “I’ve
been everywhere”? Well, we can say that about Bath. In spite of having a GPS
(Aside: do not, under any circumstances, buy a TomTom GPS! It is the most
incomprehensible GPS I’ve ever used! But Penelope’s voice was very seductive.),
we probably drove on every road in the city that cars are allowed on and
probably on some they weren’t! Finally we found a parking lot that we thought
(correctly, it turned out) was close to the Roman Baths, our sole reason for
going to Bath. Quite interesting, although whether it was worth the hour of
driving about Bath remains open to debate.
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The Roman Baths in Bath, only rediscovered in the 1800s |
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This is what the historians THINK the baths looked like in Roman times |
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Very sophisticated builders! This is the roof construction. |
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Add a floor, build a fire and you have a heated floor and room. |
Pub dinner and then on to worrying about the flight tomorrow
(May 8, 2014), the day after my son’s birthday. Or maybe the day of or even the
day before—since he lives in Australia I’m never quite sure what day it is
there!
We did a reconnoiter about the airport so we knew where to
drop the car and a very nice man at the Europa car rental told us not to return
it to where Europa in Dover told us to but gave us a semi-secret place to drop
it so we didn’t have to schlep our four bags on a bus, we could just walk to
the check-in. Nice start to the always stressful getting-to-the-airport-and-finding-where-to-check-in
dance.
Departing from Gatwick is one of the best of the
always-stressful air travel experiences. Of course it helped that we were
flying Business class. Security: didn’t have to take our shoes off! That was
possibly the highlight of the whole Gatwick experience. From the Lounge we
could watch airliners we never heard of—AirOne, AirEuropa, Freebird,
EasyJet—take off while we savored a free breakfast more than equal to the one
that would have cost us 15£ each at the hotel.
But then we got on Turkish Air! Wow! If I had known we could
have flown from LAX to IST non-stop we might not have done the cruise! We had
impeccable service, great food, plentiful drinks, beautiful stewardi—OK, OK,
Yolanda, Flight Attendants!—and, are you ready for this? METAL utensils!
Knives, even. And forks! Oh be still my heart!
Lunch was: Assorted Turkish appetizers (I thought they were
the whole lunch) like artichoke hearts and feta cheese and brie and sliced
chicken and tabouleh and tomato salad and hot breads. That was all I ate but
still to come was a grilled beef fillet with eggplant puree (delicious!) and
rice plus a Homemade (!?) chocolate and hazelnut mousse cake. I am totally
spoiled for ever flying coach again! Until I see the price, that is!
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Lunch on Turkish Air |
There is snow on the mountains in Europe! So pretty and so
cold. I hope the valleys are warmer! Either that or I didn’t bring enough warm
clothes!
If all goes well in Istanbul, we will be met by a driver to
take us to the hotel and then two days of sightseeing before we meet up with
our tour group the evening of May 10, two days from now.
I really hate to fly. Not because I’m afraid, but because it
is such a huge hassle. From the undressing to the no-liquids to the long lines
it is just plain awful. Unfortunately, I can remember the times when it was
actually fun to fly somewhere. I can remember last minute decisions to go
someplace. Even to international places like London or Sydney. And being able
to go to the gate to meet your friends or family coming to visit. And empty
seats! No longer. Really sad that air travel is such a difficult thing to do
now.
But Istanbul beckons!
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